Mostar, Bosnia

We crossed into Bosnia & Herzegovina right after our nasty experience with the Montenegrin policeman and were soothed by the beauty of the countryside.  This rural scene reminded us very much of the lovely Czech town Czesky Krumlov which we visited in 2013.

Today Bosnia & Herzegovina remains deeply scarred by the 1990s civil war that began when post-Tito Yugoslavia imploded and five years of butchery took place.   We really wanted to go to Sarajevo which endured the longest siege during the civil war and is an iconic place of suffering, endurance and heroism, but it is quite far into BH and we have limited time so we decided only to visit Mostar which also suffered, as did almost all of Bosnia.  Mostar's stari most (old bridge) is both lovely and historic and world famous.  It’s sweeping stone arch was originally built between 1557 and 1566 on the orders of Suleyman the Magnificent.  The current structure is a very convincing 2004 rebuild following the bridge’s 1993 Croat bombardment .  In summer, young men leap over the 20m parapet of the bridge and spectators are expected to pay for the privilege of watching.  It is considered a professional sport.

We had the best meal of this trip yet at the Hindin Han restaurant which was recommended both by Lonely Planet and by our hotel proprietor.  We are staying at the Shangri La, once again a Lonely Planet recommendation, and an excellent one it is.  It is beautifully appointed, comfortable and very near the old town.  Very good value.  The decor is so much to my taste that I took a photo.  The bed is both huge and extremely comfortable.

We went to a hammam museum housed in a former hammam.  Sadly, the only active hammam in the whole country is in Sarajevo. I would love to have visited one as a customer, as I experienced a hammam in Casablanca and it was marvelous.  I have been longing to repeat the pleasure ever since.

The bridge and the whole town is lit up at night.

We will be very sad to leave Bosnia & Herzegovina tomorrow when we head to Split. But our time is limited.  We found the people very friendly and Mostar a lovely town and Bosnian food is wonderful.

Postscript.  After we left Bosnia-Hercegovina we visited the War Photo Limited Gallery in Dubrovnik.  This gallery presents a very powerful experience and it features intensely compelling photographs of war in many parts of the world.  Its curator, is NZ photojournalist Wayne Goddard, who worked in the Balkans during the 1990s.  The permanent exhibition on the first floor is devoted to the wars in Yugoslavia.  These two photographs of Mostar Bridge before and after it was bombed are part of the exhibition.