Beratis often correct you when you call these Ottoman houses. They are traditional Berati houses the say. But the history speaks for itself as the houses date from the 1880s and earlier when Albania was part of the Ottoman Empire. National and civic pride has its place but these houses are undoubtedly of Ottoman vintage.
Because of Berat's location on a steep hill, it looks as if the houses have been built atop one another from afar. Countless windows, some houses with seven or eight in a row on the second storey (making it difficult for invaders to climb in) facing the road - hence the title of the "town with the thousand windows".
The excellent Ethnographic Museum - the best museum I have ever visited I may add - is down from the castle and in an 18th century Ottoman house that is as interesting as the exhibits. There are traditional Albanian costumes on display and various tools, but the most interesting part is the upper storey which has bedrooms, entertainment rooms and guest rooms furnished in traditional styles.
The main entertainment room where the family lived but where guests were welcomed and entertained.
It is explained that women, according to strict Muslim tradition, were not allowed to be present when men visited. The women climbed up in the small partition upstairs (pictured below), which was connected to the kitchen by very narrow stairs, where they could listen to the men's conversation and when required, could fetch more refreshments which they then handed over to a young boy who delivered the goodies to the male guests.
The guest room where the host slept in one bed and the guest in the other.
This museum provided a fascinating insight into the traditional lifestyles. We enjoyed our visit very much and appreciated the informative value of the displays.
The old bridge across the river.
Until 1945, this area was the palace of the Pasha of Berat. All that remains are a section of the women's quarters.
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