The spectacular glacier-carved mountains of Lofoten soar straight out of the sea. From a distance they appear as an unbroken line, known as the Lofoten Wall. They are actually a series of islands, the larger ones all connected by road bridges and tunnels.
Lofoten is Norway's prime fishing ground. The warming effects of the Gulf Stream draw spawning arctic cod from the Barents Sea south to the Lofoten waters each winter, followed by migrating north coast farmer-fishermen, who for centuries have drawn most of their income from seasonal fishing. Although fish stocks have dwindled greatly in recent years, fishing continues to be Lofoten's largest industry and cod is still hung outside to dry in wooden racks through early summer.
The vistas and the special quality of the Arctic light have long attracted artists and visitors. We were lucky enough to see the Northern Lights or Aurora Borealis last night on deck at about 11:00pm. Past our bedtime but we stayed up as the night was clear and the hope was that the lights would appear. This is a more reliable occurrence later on in October, so we were fortunate. We also had delicious fish cakes handed out which made a very nice almost-midnight snack. Not that we needed this, with all the nice food we are eating.
As we sail past, we see underneath the snow-clad mountain tops, villages and other regular signs of habitation in what may seem inhospitable, if beautiful settings.
Our last stop for the day had been for a brief hour between 9 and 10pm at the small port of Svolvaer. We had enough time to visit Magic Ice. This is an exhibition of ice sculptures housed appropriately in what was once a fish-freezing plant. The admission fee includes a large warm cape, gloves and a drink of iced elderflower wine.
The 500 sq-m space is filled with huge ice sculptures illustrating Lofoten life.
A Viking.
Nikki sitting on an ice throne.
An eagle.
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